Tie-Dyed Checkerboard Cushma
500-700 CE
99" x 52"
Textile
Culture: Nasca-Huari Culture
99" x 52"
Textile
Culture: Nasca-Huari Culture
This sleeveless tunic (cushma) dates to the Middle Horizon period, a time characterized by the expansion of the highland Huari (Wari) Empire into coastal territories, including regions previously held by the Nasca. The textile reflects an integration of these two distinct regional styles. It combines the local coastal mastery of cotton cultivation and dye technology with the rigid, geometric design systems characteristic of highland Huari iconography.
The garment is constructed from 100 individual patchwork panels that were hand-stitched together. Each component panel was woven to its specific size on a small loom rather than cut from a larger piece of cloth.
The individual panels feature rows of repeated, soft-edged square motifs produced via a resist-dyeing (tie-dye) technique. While the garment displays a strict rectangular grid when laid flat, the motifs align diagonally when draped or worn, creating an optical shift into diamond shapes.
The composition is notable for its intentional asymmetry. The panels vary slightly in size, and the coloration—featuring prominent purple and green panels interspersed with reds and indigos—varies in placement. In Andean textile traditions, these subtle irregularities provided visual movement and reflected localized design preferences rather than strict mechanical uniformity.
The textile shows minimal repair from its retrieval context and has been professionally mounted for long-term conservation and display.
The garment is constructed from 100 individual patchwork panels that were hand-stitched together. Each component panel was woven to its specific size on a small loom rather than cut from a larger piece of cloth.
The individual panels feature rows of repeated, soft-edged square motifs produced via a resist-dyeing (tie-dye) technique. While the garment displays a strict rectangular grid when laid flat, the motifs align diagonally when draped or worn, creating an optical shift into diamond shapes.
The composition is notable for its intentional asymmetry. The panels vary slightly in size, and the coloration—featuring prominent purple and green panels interspersed with reds and indigos—varies in placement. In Andean textile traditions, these subtle irregularities provided visual movement and reflected localized design preferences rather than strict mechanical uniformity.
The textile shows minimal repair from its retrieval context and has been professionally mounted for long-term conservation and display.



